Surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic industry: Benefits and trends
Metadatos
Mostrar el registro completo del ítemEditorial
John Wiley & Sons
Materia
Biosurfactant Emulsions Formulation
Fecha
2024-03-13Referencia bibliográfica
Bueno-Mancebo J, Barrena R, Artola A, Gea T, Altmajer-Vaz D. Surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic industry: Benefits and trends. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024;00:1–15. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12957
Patrocinador
Spanish Ministerio de Ciencia e Innovación (grant number PID2020-114087RB-I00); Spanish Ministerio de Ciencia e Innovación for his pre-doctoral scholarship (FPI PRE2021-097852); Funding for open access: Universidad de Granada/CBUA.Resumen
Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species
with excellent physical-chemical,
and biological properties. Among innovative
applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations.
The antibacterial and anti-acne
activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle,
moisturizing,
and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics.
Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and
sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products,
and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular
bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin
as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through
Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms “cosmetic” and “surfactin” in
their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific
surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All
patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December
2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in
the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the
year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived
from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated
advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects
related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105
patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of
them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka
(11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions,
skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%.
Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency
to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to
chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits
and minimizing the impact on the environment.